Experiencing New Zealand: A Journey Beyond Maps

I first knew the phrase ‘Map Is not Territory’ from the title of a influential book by J.Z. Smith at the University of Chicago. It turns out, ‘Map Is Not Territory’ has a much wider application. I found myself thinking about this phrase as I drove from Auckland to the Coromandel Peninisula in New Zealand. Google Maps does not do justice to the long and arduous, twisty, turny, and even treacherous roads that I drove to reach Waikawau Bay campground, which is Department of Conservation land. I was surprised that it took me almost twice as ling as Google maps told me it would take to arrive, about 6 hours. But that doesn’t begin to capture the trek. The representation on the map did not prepare me for what I saw and experienced. Maps are 2 dimensions and give us a sense of being able to understand and measure a place. But the lived, embodied experience of it, the territoriality of it, is just a different thing altogether.

There is a whole body experience of driving my campervan, which struggles up the steep mountains, and needs to slow way down for the hairpin turns on the narrow country roads. The beaches and open ocean stretch on one side of the road and the mountain cliffs up the other. It goes on and on. Google thinks it would be faster to go THROUGH the mountains on a one lane dirt road, but I beg to differ. I will even back up my van, which I don’t like to do, to avoid that particular route. When I come to a little general store that says “last chance for supplies,” I believe it. I go for a bag of ice, but also get a bottle of wine because I think I’ll need that too, when I finally arrive.

The camp ground probably has 200 sites, and I imagine that in summer it must be packed. But today, the ranger station is closed, and there is no one here, except one empty van. It briefly crosses my mind that maybe this is a little TOO remote, even for me. But then I think of the drive back. So I walk around and I find this beach. About 1.5 miles long, not a soul in sight. The absolute most stunning place I have ever seen. I find myself taking long deep breaths as a walk the beach and take in the clean cool air. Indeed, map is not territory. It’s the experience that makes all the difference.

So I spend 2 nights here, appreciating and loving this place. It is a tropical paradise and I find myself talking to the birds and the trees and ocean waves. Just being. Writing in my journal, knitting, hiking, and taking in the sunrise and sunset each day. It does something to you.

After a few days, I was ready to venture out again, this time to Hot Water Beach, another 2 hours of windy driving. There are hot springs under the sand in a certain spot at low tide. A few of us gathered waiting for the tide to recede–a young German woman who quit her nursing job and needed time away, 2 women celebrating a birthday, a NZ couple on holiday, a couple from Thailand. There was more laughter than any words spoken. You dig your own little hot tub, and enjoy the warmth and the beautiful setting. But every so often, the big waves would come in and wreck the structures. We were like kids again making sand castles, moats, and walls. Each time we laughed and laughed. It was a little community of sorts. So much fun.

I spent one more night on the peninsula on a beach campsite, and hiked into the bush for more breathtaking views. It was an amazing few days. I feel truly on sabbatical now. Unplugged on the other side of the world, meeting new people, having these experiences, and my soul just breathes in deeply.

Thanks all for following along. I miss my family, but know that time away is good too. Send me a message and let me know if you’ve ever been off the grid. What did it feel like to you?

Sending love. –Nicole