“In nature, nothing is perfect and everything is perfect. Trees can be contorted, bent in weird ways, and they’re still beautiful.” Alice Walker
One of the greatest joys on traveling in New Zealand, is experiencing the natural world. I have been camping in a van, which is a certain way to travel that causes me to slow down and look more deeply at my surroundings. Most of my days are spent outdoors. I can’t help but notice things in a different way than I do at my home in New England, partly because I am living outdoors. I will say, that a campervan is much more comfortable than a tent; I really appreciate staying dry in the rain and warmer than a tent. It’s winter here, and it rains fairly often, and the temperatures are in the low 40’s at night. There are not many people out here camping, because they save that for the warmer months. There are 13-14 hours of darkness each day, and I have adjusted to this new rhythm. “Make hay while the sun shines,” is the old saying. That’s how it is for me camping. Make the the most of those precious hours of light.
Each day I try to do a hike using my AllTrails app. I am traveling alone, so I do check the reviews to see if the trail is well marked and in good condition. I have been texting my family where I am going just in case something bad happens. I bring my Garmin InReach with the satellite-based SOS button, just in case I get into trouble. But I have found that cell service is very reliable, even in the bush in NZ.
New Zealand is a large tropical island that has a lot of natural forest. There is a general culture of appreciation and preservation of nature here, more than the US I think. For example, the Kauri tree has sacred meaning to the Maori, and has been decimated by a non-native pathogen. You can learn more about it here https://www.kauriprotection.co.nz/about-kauri/you-can-protect-kauri/ There are signs all over about why the tree is so important to the ecology of forest, the heritage of NZ, and the Maori culture. At the entrance of each trail, there is a cleaning station for your boots: to brush off the dirt and clean with a disinfectant. https://www.doc.govt.nz/news/media-releases/2018/rollout-of-innovative-kauri-dieback-cleaning-stations/
I have noticed that everyone takes this very seriously. There seems to be much more embracing of protecting the environment and conservation. There are signs about using water resources carefully, using renewable paper not plastic, and everywhere there are bins for recycling and food scrap composting. The bags for fresh fruits and veg are paper bags, not plastic. I wonder if the seamless inclusion (from what I can observe) of Maori culture into the wider culture is the reason. Indigenous culture is all around, including bilingual signs and public announcements.
If you can believe it, these are ferns! They grow as big as small trees here, maybe 10-15 feet tall! There are the undergrowth in the forests, with the large fronds lying on the ground that have dropped off. The air is very humid, and the ground is mushy, and muddy, and slippery with moss. There are basically no predators in New Zealand, which is one of the reasons why I feel so safe hiking here. There are no large animals at all. I really only see birds, so many birds.
The trails are so well cared for, with really nice bridges, boardwalks, benches to sit on, and picnic areas to enjoy a meal. I would recommend NZ as a place where people with an ecological mindset will find a supportive culture.
So much of my time here is about the lived experience. I hope that all of my time hiking will bring the memories of this place into my soul; a deep kind of memory that stays with me for a very long time. I hope forever. “What will you do with your one wild and precious life?” asks Mary Oliver. I will see and experience as much of this wild and precious world that I possibly can. And in doing so, may I truly appreciate the wildness and preciousness of all the life around me. And them may I take this gratitude into all remaining the days of my life.
Thanks for coming along on my adventure. Sending you all love.
Nicole
Nicole Grant Yonkman 